WHICH SAFE IS THE BEST FOR MY PURPOSE?
Whether you are buying a safe for personal or business use, it is really best to follow the same path in making a selection. There are three major points to consider: 1) size of safe, 2) type and degree of protection required, and 3) the price.
Let us say at the outset that if price is the only consideration, then buy the cheapest thing that uses the name "safe" and you can be certain of "getting what you pay for" -- something that is either a glorified hiding place or a housing where you can put all your valuables in one place so a burglar need not search around for them. He can take this box with him or bust it open on the spot!
If you are willing to pay for the amount of value (protection) received, then you are ready to start looking at safes of quality and find the proper safe for your needs.
A well informed safe dealer will be helpful in answering your questions and assist you in making a proper choice.
SIZE
The first determination should be SIZE. It is best to measure a few of the larger items you wish to keep within a protective housing. In particular, note the largest item and all three of its dimensions. This is true whether you decide to purchase a fire resistive safe or a burglar resistive safe. Always plan on at least 25% more space than you will presently need. This is for two very good reasons: first, you may have forgotten some items or your may acquire more, and second, a 25% larger safe is not going to cost 25% more. Before you determine the exact interior size, you will need to find out what sizes exist.
TYPE OF PROTECTION
Safes are built to meet certain fixed standards of either fire resistancy and/or burglar resistancy. Non-negotiable paper documents and records can safely be housed in a fire resistive safe. However, if the items are primarily valuables of the type that are burglary "target items," then a burglar resistive safe should be your choice. Floppy disks, magnetic tapes, and photographic negatives will not be protected in a standard fire resistant safe. These items need additional protection from heat and moisture and should be placed in a “media” safe.
BURGLAR RESISTIVE vs FIRE RESISTIVE
The basic construction design of a fire resistive safe is a hollow sheet metal casing which is filled with fire resistive insulation and then tested for performance in an oven for a time duration of 1, 2, or 4 hours at fixed maximum temperatures. For most circumstances a 1 hour or 2 hour tested safe is sufficient for fire protection. However, the following rule of thumb should be remembered: "The better a structure is built, the hotter the contents will burn. Hence, a fire proof building has the hottest type of fire and needs more protection than a wood frame construction".
The basic construction of a burglar resistive safe is solid high tensile steel walls and door. There are many different degrees of burglar resistancy. Generally burglar resistive safes are built to meet various insurance classifications as set out by the Insurance Services Office and thereby earn discounts from basic insurance premiums.
Media safes are available through a number of manufacturers. However inserts are available that may be put into UL listed fire resistant safes thereby providing a media protective area. The inserts tend to use a great deal of the available space within the safe, so plan accordingly.
BALANCING THE RISK
If the contents of the safe are going to be insured or partially insured and the dollar value is several thousands, contact your insurance agent to help determine what your savings will be in policy premium for the different classifications. Also contact your tax accountant. Investment information stored in the safe may allow the cost of the safe, or a portion of the cost, to be a tax deduction. You may also be able to depreciate the value of the safe over a period of time.
Always remember that burglary protection should begin with good physical protection, i.e. dead bolt locks; positive action sliding door locks, etc., All high-value items should be stored in a safe. Then, if additional protection is desired, add electronics in the form of an alarm system. When considering security from fire and theft, keep this thought uppermost in your mind. If man can make it, then man can destroy it, given sufficient time, tools, and technology!
PRICE
Most safes are priced competitively in all areas of the United States. Having determined the size, type and degree of protection, you can now turn to value. You can compare various features or preferences, i.e., color, overall appearance, hardware, interiors that are furnished or at additional cost, etc. If this doesn't give you a final determination between two products, try some simple mathematics. Divide the price by the cubic inch capacity and determine how much the unit costs per cubic inch of protected area.
Of course, it is not necessary to follow the above format, however by doing so, you will find that you have saved a lot of time, gotten to the heart of the matter rapidly and have made an intelligent purchase.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Most of the safes currently in houses and businesses in the U.S. are simple insulated (fire) safes which may offer protection against fire, but are almost useless against a burglar, even if they have a combination lock. A husky teenager with a stout screwdriver can open them. Most fire safes weigh at the most a few hundred pounds. Burglars can carry them away easily (eventually with the help of a "dolly") to a secluded place where they can take their time and make any noise necessary to open them. Some of these safes are simple tin boxes which can be bought at the hardware store or office supply store...did you say a "safe"??? The danger of these not-so-burglar-resistant "safes" is that they tell a burglar where the valuables may be. They make his search shorter and his task easier while offering a very limited (if any) burglary protection.
Some old safes may be heavy and look imposing, but most of them do not offer any more burglar protection than the simple insulated safes, and moreover, their fire proofing has, in many cases, deteriorated to such an extent that they no longer even offer fire protection.
Simple steel plate safes (steel boxes) may be tool resistant and have U.L. labels to that effect, but anybody with a torch can make a hole several inches wide in any of them. It takes only a few minutes. Moreover, in case of a fire or an attack with a torch, these safes act like an oven, burning their contents very quickly.

U.L. labels may be used as a guideline as you determine your safe needs. They mean that a safe, or most often the door of a safe, has been tested by laboratory engineers using a very limited number of tools and/or methods of attacks, and has successfully resisted these attacks, under special laboratory conditions, for a given number of minutes.
There are a variety of combination locks available . Group II locks are the most common type on home safes today. They provide a 1, 2, or 3 number combination. Group I locks provide a greater degree of protection as they greatly decrease the possibility of even a skilled professional from “cracking” the safe by manipulation of the combination. Electronic “pushbutton” locks are becoming more common. They offer many features not found on mechanical combination locks including ease of daily use, easy combination changes, and no reduction in levels of security. The convenience that electronic locks provide make them very attractive if the safe is to be used often. Electronic combinated locks generally add to the cost of the safe.
You may be able to increase your security by having both a combinated and a high security keyed lock on the safe. Again, you must weigh the cost and the convenience against your actual needs. Standard keyed locks will offer no additional protection to a safe. However the loss or the theft of a key is noticeable and action can be taken to remedy this loss or theft.
There are no miracles. Even small (l cubic foot internal capacity) safes cannot offer a decent fire and burglar protection unless they cost about $1000 delivered and installed. Safes must be properly encased. Their doors and locking systems must be properly designed and built. Free standing safes must weigh at least 400 to 500 lbs. (for an internal capacity of 1 cu. ft.), be properly anchored, and offer a real fire and burglar (against tool and torch) protection. Some levels of burglary protection are not valid unless certain requirements pertaining to weight are adhered to. Tool resistant safes must weigh at least 750 pounds or be bolted to the floor to maintain their burglary resistant rating.
So do YOU need a decent fire and burglar resisting-safe? If so, your source of information and advice should be professionals representing one of the well established, reputable firms providing high security safes. Please consider our firm for reliable, confidential advice, sales and service.


Fire/Media Safe Contents
Record How Long You Should Keep
Tax returns 6 years
Cancelled checks 6 years
Bank Statements 6 years
Check register Forever
Credit card numbers Forever
Contracts Until expiration or until all possible legal remedies expire
Household inventory, Update yearly - video tape every 2 years
Insurance policies
Home, Auto, Life Until expiration; Life insurance, forever
Investment Records 6 years, Same as Tax returns (May make safe purchase tax deductable. See your tax accountant.)
Loan and Promissory notes Until 6 years after paid off
Local tax statement 6 years
Mortgage interest statements Keep current
Mortgage records 6 years after selling your final home.
Mortgage settlement sheets 6 years after selling your final home.
Home improvement receipts 6 years after selling your final home.
Personal records
Marriage/Divorce
Birth/Death/Medical
Military service
Will
Social Security records
Passport Forever
Real Estate Deed Until Property is sold
Receipts for major purchases As long as you own the item
Vehicle Titles As long as you own the vehicle
Warranties Until expiration of the warranty